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FAQ'S > Skin care > Exfoliants

Exfoliants

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What's the difference between BHA and AHA?
BHA is oil-soluble and can penetrate into the pore exfoliating accumulated skin cells that clog pores and can also exfoliate on the surface of skin as well. It is best for skin types prone to blackheads and blemishes. AHAs are water-soluble and exfoliate primarily on the surface of the skin. They are generally best for sun-damaged skin that is not prone to blemishes. AHA's also have moisturizing properties.

What are the pH levels for Paula's Choice BHA products?
BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) works best at a pH of 3 to 4. Our 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion and 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid both have a pH of 3.2. Our 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel, 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel, and 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion have a pH of 3.4, while our Weightless Body Treatment with 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid has a pH of 3.3.

What's the difference between the various 1% and 2% BHA products?
The 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion is in a light lotion base that dries to a matte finish and the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion is in a creamier base that still feels light on the skin yet also moisturizes. These are best for normal to dry or combination skin types with mild to moderate breakouts and blackheads.

The 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel and 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel are water-based silky finish formulas that are best for those with normal to oily or combination skin prone to blemishes and blackheads. They absorb quickly and are barely felt on the skin.

The 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid is a clear liquid that contains a slip agent to enhance the penetration of the salicylic acid, while keeping the skin soft and smooth. It is best for someone with normal to very oily skin with stubborn breakouts or blackheads.

What is the difference between the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel and the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion?
The main difference is texture. The 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion has a lightly moisturizing lotion base while our 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel features a water-light gel base that provides slightly less hydration and is barely felt on the skin. Both products contain the same concentration of salicylic acid and have a pH level low enough to facilitate exfoliation. Both products are also appropriate for all skin types, though those with oily to very oily skin may naturally prefer the 1% BHA Gel's texture.

I currently use the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion. Should I switch to the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel? Can I use both?
It is entirely a matter of personal preference. If the texture and finish of the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion appeal to you and has been working for your skin, then there is no reason to switch. However, if you want an even lighter texture or your skin has become oilier (such as can occur seasonally) then the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel may be an option for you. It is perfectly fine to use both of our 1% BHA products, though use only one at a time (i.e. apply the 1% BHA lotion in the morning under makeup and the 1% BHA Gel in the evening).

Is Paula's Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel stronger than the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion?
From a percentage of active ingredient standpoint, no. However, because the 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel is somewhat better able to penetrate into the pore, it can produce faster (but not necessarily better) results. The drawback with this enhanced penetration is that it may increase the likelihood of skin flaking or peeling for some people. The 1% BHA Lotion's base allows for slower, more controlled penetration of salicylic acid.

How does Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel compare to the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid?
The main difference is texture. The 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid has a toner-like consistency, and its base allows faster penetration of salicylic acid into the pore lining while providing ultra-light hydration.

The 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel has a water-light gel base that lightly hydrates without feeling thick or greasy. Both products contain the same concentration of salicylic acid and have a pH level low enough for effective exfoliation. Both products are also appropriate for all skin types, though those with oily to very oily skin may naturally prefer the 2% BHA Liquid's texture.

I currently use Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion. Should I switch to the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel? Is it all right to use both?
It is entirely a matter of personal preference. If you like the texture and finish of the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion and it worked for your skin, then stick with it. However, if you want a lighter texture or your skin has become oilier (such as can occur seasonally—think summer vs. winter skin) then you may consider the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel. It is completely acceptable to use more than one of our 2% BHA products, though use only one at a time. A typical regimen would be to apply the 2% BHA Gel in the morning under makeup and the 2% BHA Lotion in the evening.

Is Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel stronger than the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid?
No. Both products have the same concentration of salicylic acid formulated in the correct pH range for exfoliation to occur. Both products also have a glycol base courtesy of the ingredient methylpropanediol. This ingredient enhances the penetration of salicylic acid while also having water-binding properties for skin. Which product to choose comes down to whether you want a liquid (toner-like) or gel texture.

I have tried Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion and 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid and did not care for the texture of either. Will the 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel work for me?
Quite possibly, yes. If you're looking for a BHA exfoliant with a texture that's lighter than our 2% BHA Lotion but not as liquidy as our 2% BHA Liquid, the 2% BHA Gel should be an ideal "happy medium" for your skin.

Which BHA should I use?
Use the one that will produce the best results for your skin type. We recommend starting with a 1% BHA concentration before moving to a 2%, unless you have very oily skin and stubborn, persistent breakouts. For more information about exfoliants, read Paula's article Understanding Exfoliants.

Can I use both an AHA and a BHA?
You can use both, and some of our customers do and have great results using both, but generally using one or the other is far more typical. We do not recommend using both on the same parts of the face at the same time.

How soon can I expect to see results?
That truly depends on your skin type and how often you use the product. Results can appear as soon as 1 day after use but may take up to 1 week.

I have dry, sun damaged skin AND breakouts in my t-zone—which should I use, an AHA or BHA product?
AHA is better for exfoliating sun-damaged surface skin and BHA is better at getting into the pores and exfoliating the accumulated skin cells that clog pores as well as exfoliating the surface of skin. A BHA product would probably work best but you can also experiment to see which one works best for your skin type.

How often should exfoliants be used?
This really depends on your skin and how it reacts to an AHA or BHA product. Once per day may be best, or you may find greater results from using it twice per day. Those with sensitive skin may do best with applying it once every other day. It does not matter if these are used morning or evening—or both, that decision is just personal preference.

After I apply an exfoliant, do I have to wait before applying moisturizers?
No, our moisturizers can be applied to dry areas immediately afterwards.

Why doesn't Paula make a face scrub?
For the face, Paula feels that mixing baking soda with your cleanser to create a thin, paste-like consistency or using a soft washcloth work beautifully as scrubs so there is no need to purchase an additional product.

What do I do when my skin "gets used to" my AHA/BHA?
Your skin doesn't "get used to" an AHA or BHA, but AHAs and BHA do have a drop-off point, because there is only so much surface exfoliation or exfoliation in the pore that can take place. The longer you use these products, the less "dramatic" the results will be. However, they will always be beneficial for maintaining smooth, even-textured skin and encouraging ongoing healthy cell turnover.

What will happen if I stop using exfoliants?
Your skin may retain some of the smoothness from the AHA/BHA treatment as they can generate collagen production, but as the sun-damaged skin cells or skin cells that grow abnormally collect once again, your skin will slowly revert to the way it was before you started using the products.

Can AHA or BHA be used around the eyes?
Avoid direct contact with eyes and do not apply the AHA or BHA products too close to the eyes or to the eyelid or underbrow areas. You may try a small amount in the general under-eye area (going no closer to the eye than the orbital bone) to see how your skin reacts. If your skin seems fine, then gently pat the AHA or BHA closer to the eye, making sure not to get it too close or in the eye.

Should I use an AHA on my face and neck?
You can and should use this on your neck or chest if that area is sun damaged.

Can BHA be used on teens and/or pre-teens?
Yes, this is fine and often beneficial for teens, especially those with acne or blackheads.

Can I use BHA products on areas other than my face?
Paula's Choice BHA products can be used anywhere on the body. They work very well to exfoliate dry elbows, knees, feet, and arms. However, if you prefer a product formulated specifically for the body, try our Weightless Body Treatment with 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid.

Can the AHA and/or BHA products be used during pregnancy or while lactating?
Although topical exfoliants should not pose a problem for pregnant woman, we do recommend asking your doctor before using or continuing to use an AHA or BHA product while pregnant or if you are lactating.

Do I have to use sunscreen if I am using an AHA or BHA product?
For the long-term health and appearance of your skin, you certainly should get in to the habit of applying sunscreen every day, rain or shine, especially when you are using an AHA or BHA product. Since these topical exfoliants work to remove layers of sun-damaged skin, it is vitally important that the fresh, new skin is well-protected from UV light. Ironically, the sun-damaged layer of skin (which the AHA or BHA products nicely remove) serves as your skin's first line of defense against sun exposure. Think of it as a callus that offers minimal protection while keeping your skin from looking and feeling its best.

Please note that for AHA products, the following: unburn Alert applies: Products containing AHA's may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

Paula Begoun

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