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Ingredient Dictionary
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Ingredient Dictionary
Ingredient Dictionary
You can use the alphabet to find the ingredient you are interested in.
You can use this dictionary to gain an understanding of the significance of an ingredient in terms of its claim and its potential for irritation, and then use that information to make comparisons among products before you make your purchase.
Please note that this dictionary is by no means exhaustive. The ingredients chosen for inclusion were selected based on how often they appear in cosmetic products, how well-known they are, and/or whether there are unique claims surrounding their alleged benefits. You will find entries for a wide selection of ingredients, from emollients to slip agents and preservatives, that will provide you with a greater understanding of how these ingredients function and what they can and cannot do.
acacia senegal. Herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties, but that is used primarily as a thickening agent. See gums.
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accutane. Trade name of prescription-only anti-acne drug that is taken orally. Active ingredient is isotretinoin, which is derived from vitamin A. This drug works by essentially stopping oil production in sebaceous glands (the oil-producing structures of the skin) and literally shrinking these glands to the size of a baby’s (Source: Dermatology, 1997; volume 195, Supplemental 1:1–3, pages 38–40). This prevents sebum (oil) from clogging the hair follicle, mixing with dead skin cells, and rupturing the follicle wall to create an environment where the bacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) can thrive, which can result in pimples or cysts. Relatively normal oil production resumes when treatment is completed; although the sebaceous glands may slowly begin to enlarge again, they rarely become as large as they were before treatment. “Because of its relatively rapid onset of action and its high efficacy with reducing more than 90% of the most severe [acne] inflammatory lesions, Accutane has a role as an effective treatment in patients with severe acne that is recalcitrant to other therapies” (Source: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, November 2001, Supplemental, pages 188–194).Accutane is controversial, however, for several reasons, but principally because of its most insidious side effect—it has been proven to cause severe birth defects in nearly 90% of the babies born to women who were pregnant while taking it. Other commonly reported, although temporary, side effects of Accutane include dry skin and lips, mild nosebleeds (the inside of your nose can get really dry for the first few days), hair loss, aches and pains, itching, rash, fragile skin, increased sensitivity to the sun, headaches, and peeling palms and hands. More serious, although much less common, side effects include severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, blurred vision, changes in mood, depression, severe stomach pain, diarrhea, decreased night vision, bowel problems, persistent dryness of eyes, calcium deposits in tendons, an increase in cholesterol levels, and yellowing of the skin. However, there is current research indicating that depression does not occur during the course of taking Accutane (Sources: Canadian Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, June 2007, pages 277–233; Psychological Reports, December 2006, pages 897–906; European Journal of Dermatology, September–October, 2006, pages 565–571; and Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, May 2006, pages 467–468).
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acetone. Strong solvent used in nail polish removers.
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acetyl glucosamine. Amino acid sugar and primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective for wound healing. There is research showing that chitosan (which is composed of acetyl glucosamine) can help wound healing in a complex physiological process (Sources: Cellular-Molecular-Life-Science, February 1997, pages 131–140; and Biomaterials, June 2001, pages 1667–1673). However, the amount used in those studies was significantly greater than the amount used in cosmetics. In terms of exfoliation, the research that does exist was done by Proctor & Gamble (Source: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, February 2007, Supplement 2, page AB169). Further, there is no research demonstrating that wrinkles are related to wounds.
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acetyl hexapeptide-3. Synthetically derived peptide used in a wide range of skin-care and makeup products, especially those claiming to have a muscle-relaxing effect similar to Botox injections. These claims typically have to do with relaxing muscle contractions when making facial expressions, thus reducing the appearance of expression lines. The company that sells acetyl hexapeptide-3 (trade name Argireline), Centerchem (www.centerchem.com), is based in Spain. According to their Web site, “Argireline works through a unique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. Argireline has been shown to moderate excessive catecholamines release.” The truth of this claim about the effects of topical application of Argireline is based only on information from Centerchem; there is no published research substantiating any use of Argireline topically on skin.Catecholamines are compounds in the body that serve as neurotransmitters such as epinephrine, adrenaline, and dopamine. Epinephrine prepares the body to handle emergencies such as cold, fatigue, and shock. A deficiency of dopamine in the brain is responsible for the symptoms of Parkinson’s disease. These actions are not something you want a cosmetic to inhibit or reduce. If acetyl hexapeptide-3 really worked to relax facial muscles, it would work all over the face (assuming you’re using the products as directed). If all the muscles in your face were relaxed you’d have sagging, not youthful, skin, not to mention that it also would affect your hand (you apply it with your fingers), which would prevent you from picking up a cup or holding the steering wheel of your car. Despite all the fear about Botox that is espoused by companies featuring this peptide in their “works like Botox” products, there is considerably more efficacy, usage, and safety documentation available for Botox. Despite the claims made for acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), there is a clinical study that shows that this ingredient is not even remotely as effective as Botox in reducing wrinkles (Sources: www.cremedevie.com/clinical_details.htm; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2002). It is also interesting to note that even Botox when applied topically on skin has no impact on the skin or muscles in any way shape or form! (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2005, pages 521–524.) See peptide.
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acetylated castor oil. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.
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acetylated lanolin. Emollient derived from lanolin. See lanolin.
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acetylated lanolin alcohol. Ester of lanolin alcohol used as an emollient and occlusive agent. Esters are compounds formed from an alcohol and an acid with the elimination of water, and are common cosmetic ingredients.
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acetylated palm kernel glycerides. Emollient and thickening agents used in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.
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acid. Anything with a pH lower than 7 is acidic; a pH above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5.
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acne soap. Soaps that often contain antibacterial ingredients, and that are often overly drying and irritating to skin due to the cleansing agents they contain. A study reported in Infection (March–April 1995, pages 89–93) demonstrated that “in the group using soap the mean number of inflammatory [acne] lesions increased…. Symptoms or signs of irritation were seen in 40.4% of individuals….” Furthermore, if the antibacterial agents are in a cleanser, any benefit is washed down the drain.
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active ingredient. The active ingredients list is the part of a cosmetic, drug, or pharmaceutical ingredient label that must adhere to specific FDA-mandated regulations. Active ingredients must be listed first on an ingredient label. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients are considered to have a pharmacological altering effect on skin, and these effects must be documented by scientific evaluation and approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin-lightening agents, and benzoyl peroxide. See inactive ingredient.
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adenosine triphosphate. Organic compound of adenosine that is formed by hydrolysis of yeast nucleic acids. All living things need a continual supply of energy to function. Animals obtain energy by oxidizing foods, plants obtain energy by chlorophyll’s interaction with sunlight. However, before the energy can be used, it must first be changed into a form that the organism can readily use. This special form, or carrier, of energy is the molecule adenosine triphosphate (ATP). In humans, ATP is the major energy source within the cell that drives a number of biological processes such as protein synthesis. The cell breaks down ATP by hydrolysis to yield adenosine diphosphate (ADP), which is then further broken down to yield adenosine monophosphate (AMP). Research into topically applied adenosine triphosphate is just beginning, but it appears to have strong potential as a cell-communicating ingredient and as an inflammation modulator (Sources: The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, volume 124, issue 4, April 2005, pages 756–763; and Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, volume 8, issue 2, March–April 2004, pages 90–96). See cell-communicating ingredients.
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advanced glycation endproduct. Advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs) are formed by the body’s major fuel source, namely glucose. This simple sugar is essential for energy, but also can bind strongly to proteins (the body’s fundamental building blocks), forming abnormal structures—AGEs—that progressively damage tissue elasticity. Once AGEs are generated, they begin a process that prevents many systems from behaving normally by literally causing tissue to cross-link and become hardened (Source: Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, March 14, 2000 , pages 2809–2813). The theory is that by breaking these AGE bonds you can undo or stop the damage they cause. There are studies showing that aminoguanidine and carnosine are AGE inhibitors that can prevent glucose cross-linking of proteins and the loss of elasticity associated with aging and diabetes; however, many other substances are potential candidates as AGE inhibitors as well. One study examined over 92 substances, and 29 of them showed some degree of inhibitory activity, with 9 compounds proving to be 30 to 40 times stronger than aminoguanidine (Source: Molecular Cell Biology Research Communications, June 2000, pages 360–366). AGEs and free-radical damage may be inextricably linked (Sources: European Journal of Neuroscience, December 2001, page 1961; and Neuroscience Letters, October 2001, pages 29–32), but none of the studies show that there is any relevance when it comes to topical application of these substances as they are included in cosmetics.
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