Anti-Aging Superstars

Introduction

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role

Recommended A-List Products

Recommended B-List Products

"Anti-aging" and "antiwrinkle" are universal terms used on all manner of cosmetics, from cleansers to eye creams, foundations, and, of late, even lipsticks and lip glosses. No one would argue the fascination and hope these products instill in women. This isn't particularly surprising; after all, who would ever be "pro-aging" or "pro-wrinkling." But from a marketing standpoint, any words or phrases on a product that impart the image of helping a woman over the age of 30 or 40 look younger or prevent skin from ever looking older is beyond compelling: it is simply as fundamental to life as brushing your teeth or washing your hair.

Anti-aging and antiwrinkle are powerful buzzwords that capture the attention of women the world over. Nearly every cosmetic company has their coterie of new products laden with myriad "anti-aging" claims. Each product sounds more incredible than the last. Miracles of biblical proportions are available on the shelves in drugstores and department stores, on infomercial ads, and at in-home sales presentations. The claims make it a wonder that plastic surgeons haven't gone out of business. How do they manage to find clientele if these products work even fractionally as well as they claim?

Regardless of age, most people shopping for skin-care products and makeup are interested in products that will keep their skin looking young for as long as possible. And those who are already dealing with "signs of aging" (which are really signs of sun damage; skin that isn't exposed to the sun doesn't "age" as much as the skin on parts of the body that are exposed to sun all the time), such as wrinkles, discolorations, sagging, and uneven skin texture, want to use products that minimize, prevent, or entirely eliminate these undesirable features, while at the same time turning back the clock and repairing damage.

The bad news: There is only so much a cosmetic can do to provide the results we long for, and no skin-care product can even remotely work like or take the place of Botox, lasers, or dermal injections, despite the endless assertions from myriad cosmetic companies, including many doctor-owned lines where the doctors themselves offer such procedures. But there also is good news: There are many products being sold whose ingredients have a proven track record of producing noticeable, sometimes cumulative, improvements in skin. Here is what we know for certain:

• Certain vitamins and plant extracts can stimulate collagen production and help reduce discolorations.
  
• Antioxidants reduce inflammation, help skin defend against environmental assaults, and produce a healthier looking visage.
  
• Cell-communicating ingredients, at least in theory, can "tell" skin cells to behave in a normal (meaning younger and undamaged) manner.
  
• Exfoliants can remove built-up layers of problematic dead, rough, thickened, uneven surface skin cells that make skin look more wrinkled and dry. Some exfoliants also have research showing they can increase collagen production while improving skin texture due to the removal of the built-up layers of dead skin.
  
• Last, there are numerous skin-identical substances (i.e., substances that are the same as the natural components in skin that hold skin cells together and protect it) that replenish and restore the skin's external barrier, making it soft and supple, diminishing dryness, and helping skin defend itself from environmental factors.

Abundant research makes it crystal clear that these ingredients are indeed the state-of-the-art ingredients, especially when combined, that can make skin, dare I say it, fight the signs of aging! Without question, these are the types of ingredients you need in any lotion, cream, gel, serum, moisturizer, anti-aging, or anti-wrinkle product you use. If they're not in there, then why bother? And if they're not in an expensive product? That's a red flag that you're paying for fancy packaging and grandiose claims, not a truly elegant product.

Before I explain the superstars in these categories, the superstar of all superstars in the anti-aging category is, of course, a broad-spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 15 or greater. I know that sunscreen isn't nearly as sexy or exciting as the latest antiwrinkle cream dressed up in slick, clinical packaging and endorsed by whomever the dermatologist or celebrity du jour is-but when applied correctly (meaning liberally, daily, and before your skin encounters daylight, as well as reducing the amount of time your skin is in direct sunlight), it remains your best defense against wrinkles, discolorations, loss of firmness, dullness, and just about every other concern you may have that keeps you shopping (and spending money) month after month for the latest and greatest anti-aging product. Because of the ultimate importance of sunscreen, a report like this would be incomplete and a disservice to my readers if I didn't include-and repeat-information about the importance of sunscreen for your skin.

Along with those vital substances discussed above, what you will discover in this report is a comprehensive list of the more popular cosmetic ingredients that have substantiated research showing them to be among the top "anti-aging" ingredients available today.
Regrettably, this list is not (and cannot be) exhaustive, especially in the case of antioxidants. There are literally hundreds of potent, powerful antioxidants that can be included in cosmetics, and many more being discovered all the time; plus they are the subject of ongoing in-depth research. Although a "best" antioxidant (or any best ingredient of any kind) remains elusive (despite claims to the contrary by numerous cosmetics companies), the ones reviewed below have an impressive amount of research proving their worth for skin. Looking for these (in stable packaging, meaning no clear containers and no jars) is an excellent game plan for your skin.

You may be surprised that some of the more trendy anti-aging ingredients are not on this list. Examples of such ingredients are various growth factors, stem cells (or ingredients claiming to stimulate stem cells), DMAE, GABA, coffeeberry, kinetin, minerals, wild yam, or peptides claiming to work like Botox, to name a select few. These ingredients have minimal to no research showing they can benefit skin, as is typically claimed on the product labels. And in the case of growth factors, although these may have anti-aging benefits in vitro, their use on healthy, intact skin may do more harm than good due to the complicated manner in which they work. (For more information about these ingredients and many others not discussed in this report, please refer to my cosmetic ingredient dictionary, which has the information you need to separate fact from fiction about these substances.)

One other point: Regardless of the name on the label, whether the company is calling their product a lotion, serum, gel, cream, treatment, anti-aging, lifting, moisturizer, hydrating, and on and on; all of that is irrelevant. What is healthy for your skin is analogous to what is healthy for your diet. For example, broccoli is good for you, but how it is served is merely personal preference (and it must be accompanied by other healthy food groups); that doesn't change whether or not it's beneficial for your body. In the same way, what is healthy for your skin is always healthy for your skin, regardless of the marketing names or claims on the packaging or the texture in which the ingredients are blended.

Now that you know what to look for when shopping for anti-aging products, you'll be on your way to getting your skin in peak condition, preventing further youth-depleting damage, and ensuring that the face you see in the mirror is radiant, healthy, and, yes, younger looking. I know that some of the information above is not as exciting or enticing as what you'll hear at cosmetics counters or read in fashion magazines, but adhering to a skin-care routine that encompasses some or all of the ingredients featured in this report will put you (and your skin) way ahead of those whose anti-aging hopes hinge on whatever gimmick or unproven ingredient the cosmetic industry is currently heralding as the next fountain of youth!

 

Introduction

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role

Recommended A-List Products

Recommended B-List Products

 

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants)
Salicylic Acid
Retinol
Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Niacinamide
Sunscreen Actives

Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants)

What they do: For all skin types, it is extremely helpful to exfoliate the surface layers of skin. Whether you use a product with glycolic or lactic acids (or a blend) these alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) work to unglue the outer layer of dead skin cells, helping increase cell turnover by removing the built-up top layers of skin, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Exfoliation helps reduce skin discolorations, gives skin a smoother texture, and improves how skin functions. Glycolic and lactic acids also have water-binding properties, making them beneficial for improving dry skin. There also is a good deal of research showing that use of a well-formulated AHA product can increase collagen production.

Why they're on the A-list: Removing built-up layers of dead skin cells improves skin texture and color, unclogs pores, and allows moisturizers and serums to be better absorbed by the skin. AHAs affect the top layers of skin. They help improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin, dry skin, and thickened skin caused by a variety of factors, including abnormal cell growth, smoking, and heavy moisturizers. Reminder: Sun damage in particular causes the top layer of skin to thicken, creating a dull, rough texture and appearance on the surface. AHAs nicely remove this thickened layer, revealing the more normal-appearing skin cells underneath. However, removing this layer of thickened, abnormal skin from the surface means that the fresh skin beneath is more vulnerable to sun damage (just as skin was when you were younger), so don't forget that you must use sunscreen each day, and when it comes to getting a tan-Forget about it!

AHAs in skin-care products are safe and effective in concentrations ranging from 5% to 15%.

Sources: Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 1999, pages 111-119; Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404-409; and Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573-577.

A-List Products with Glycolic Acid: Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Hydrating Gel ($48 for 2 ounces); Paula's Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel, for All Skin Types (€19.95 for 4 ounces); Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion, Night ($12.59 for 2.5 ounces); and Ultraceuticals Ultra Ace Hydration Booster ($50 for 2.5 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Salicylic Acid

What it does: Salicylic acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid [BHA]) works in a fashion similar to glycolic and lactic acids (AHA), but BHA is preferred for those dealing with blackheads and acne. This is because of BHA's four-pronged benefit: (1) it exfoliates the surface of skin (like AHAs), (2) it can penetrate through the oil in the pore (because it is lipid soluble) and exfoliate the lining of the pore, unclogging debris that can lead to blemishes, (3) it has antibacterial properties so it kills acne-causing bacteria, and (4) it has anti-inflammatory properties so it helps the skin heal and repair itself.

Why it's on the A-list: Just like a well-formulated AHA product, ongoing use of a salicylic acid exfoliant will improve skin's appearance in numerous ways, whether blemishes are present or not. In terms of wrinkle reduction, salicylic acid can increase collagen production, smooth superficial lines, reduce redness, and diminish sun-induced discolorations. Salicylic acid is available in skin-care products in concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%.

Researched Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, January 2008, pages 45-50; Archives of Internal Medicine, July 2002, pages 1531-1532; Annals of Dermatology and Venereology, January 2002, pages 137-142; Archives of Dermatology, November 2000, pages 1390-1395; Preservatives for Cosmetics, 1996, by David Steinberg, Allured Publishing; Health Canada Monograph Category IV, Antiseptic Cleansers, at www.hc-sc.gc.ca/english/; Dermatology, 1999, volume 199, number 1, pages 50-53; and Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, volume 175, issue 1, pages 76-82.)

A-List Products with Salicylic Acid: Bare Escentuals bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper ($21 for 2.3 ounces); Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment ($7.99 for 2 ounces); Paula's Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel (€19.95 for 4 ounces), 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion (€19.95 for 4 ounces), 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel (€19.95 for 4 ounces), 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid (€19.95 for 4 ounces); and ProActiv Solution Clarifying Night Cream ($28.75 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

Retinol

What it does: Retinol is the term used for the entire vitamin A molecule. Applied to skin, retinol is a beneficial cell-communicating ingredient and an antioxidant. Simply put, it helps skin cells create better, healthier skin cells and increases the amount of skin-support substances. In skin-care products it is found in the form of retinol, retinyl palmitate, and retinylaldehyde. In prescription-only skin-care products, it is in the form of retinoic acid (also called tretinoin).

Why it's on the A-list: In addition to functioning as a cell-communicating ingredient and antioxidant, retinol has been shown to increase skin's collagen production and glycosaminoglycan content, resulting in firmer skin with an improved texture and enhanced barrier function. Although it is not the only ingredient to look for in an anti-aging product, it deserves strong consideration by anyone concerned with keeping their skin in top shape through the years. You may also want to consider one of the prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin (Renova), tazarotene (Tazorac), or adapalene (Differin); the latter two are highly recommended if you are dealing with wrinkles and breakouts. Those dealing with the triple threat of wrinkles, breakouts, and sun-induced skin discolorations should consider a prescription for Tri-Luma.

Caution: Not everyone can tolerate retinol and many people's skin cannot tolerate any amount of prescription retinoid without experiencing discomfort and visually undesirable side effects. Retinol's most common side effects include flaking, sunburned-like skin. However, this can be mitigated in many cases by using a lower strength or by applying the retinol product less frequently.

Researched Sources: Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606-612; Cosmetic Dermatology, supplement, Revisiting Retinol, January 2005, pages 1-20; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 799-804; Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, April 2005, pages 1156-1162; Mechanisms of Ageing Development, July 2004, pages 465-473; and Journal of Dermatology, November 2001, pages 595-598.

A-List Products with Retinol: SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce); and Retinol 1.0 Maximum Strength Refining Night Cream with 1.0% Pure Retinol ($48 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce) and Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce); Philosophy eye believe, deep wrinkle peptide gel ($30 for 0.5 ounce); Alpha Hydrox Retinol Night ResQ ($14.99 for 1.05 ounces); and Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Night Cream ($17.39 for 1.4 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Vitamin C

What it does: One of the most well-researched vitamins for skin, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has multiple benefits for those concerned with reducing (or forestalling) the signs of aging. It is available in many forms, with ascorbic acid being the most common (although it is the least stable, so packaging to ensure potency of such products is a major concern). Stabilized forms of vitamin C include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, L-ascorbic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl glucosamine, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Why it's on the A-list: Efficacious amounts of topical vitamin C (typically 2-10%) have been shown to increase collagen production (including dermal collagen, which is significant for wrinkle reduction), reduce the appearance of skin discolorations, strengthen skin's barrier response, enhance skin's repair process, reduce inflammation, and help skin better withstand exposure to sunlight, whether protected by sunscreen or not.

Researched Sources: International Journal of Toxicology, volume 24, supplement 2, 2005, pages 51-111; Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691, and June 2003, pages 237-244; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 814-817; Nutrition Reviews, March 2005, pages 81-90; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, November-December 2004, pages 298-303; BMC Dermatology, September 2004, page 13; International Journal of Dermatology, August 2004, pages 604-607; and Archives of Facial Plastic Surgery, volume 5, issue 2m March-April 2003, pages m145-m149.

A-List Products with Vitamin C: MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum ($90 for 1 ounce); DDF C3 Plus Serum ($62 for 0.5 ounce); La Roche-Posay BioMedic Potent-C 10.5 Concentrate ($60 for 1 ounce); SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($122 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce); Jan Marini Skin Research C-ESTA Serum ($60 for 1 ounce); Cellex-C Serum for Sensitive Skin ($90 for 1 ounce); and Perricone MD Cosmeceuticals Vitamin C Ester Eye Therapy ($50 for 0.5 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Vitamin E

What it does: Vitamin E is considered an antioxidant superstar in its own right. This fat-soluble vitamin is available in various forms, with the most biologically active being alpha tocopherol. Simply put, vitamin E in all its forms works in several different ways to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage. It also works in powerful synergy with vitamin C, as research has shown that vitamin C can regenerate "spent" vitamin E molecules. However, this synergy depends on using stabilized forms of both vitamins and putting them in packaging that minimizes their exposure to light or air.

Why it's on the A-list: Vitamin E protects the top layers of skin from early stages of sun damage, increases the efficacy of active sunscreen ingredients, reduces the formation of free radicals when skin is exposed to UVA rays and other sources of skin stress, prevents the peroxidation of fats (a leading source of cell membrane damage in the body), and reduces trans-epidermal water loss from skin, which strengthens the skin's barrier function. All of this leads to skin that is better able to defend itself from damage that leads to visible signs of aging.

Researched Sources: Dermatologic Therapy, September-October 2007, pages 314-321; International Journal of Immunopathology and Pharmacology, July-September 2005, pages 497-502; Experimental Dermatology, September 2005, pages 684-691; International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, July 2005, pages 116-119; Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, January-February 2005, pages 20-26; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2005, pages 304-307; Photochemistry and Photobiology, April 1993, pages 613-615; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2005, page 4.

A-List Products with Vitamin E: Jason Natural Ester-C Lotion Anti-Oxidant Regenerating Moisturizer ($16 for 4 ounces); NeoStrata Daytime Protection Cream SPF 15, PHA 10 ($33 for 1.75 ounces); Kiehl's Light Nourishing Eye Cream ($20 for 0.5 ounce); Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces), Skin Recovery Moisturizer (€19.75 for 2 ounces), and Skin Balancing Moisture Gel (€19.75 for 2 ounces); RevaleSkin Night Cream ($99 for 1.7 ounces); Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm, for Eye and Lip Area ($47 for 0.5 ounce); and Artistry by Amway Skin Refinishing Lotion ($48.85 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

Note: Vitamin E should not be listed on cosmetics simply as "vitamin E." Instead, manufacturers are required to list the form of the vitamin. Examples you will come across include tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocotrienols, alpha tocopherol, and tocopheryl succinate.


Niacinamide

What it does: Also known as vitamin B3, topically applied niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to address skin discolorations (often in tandem with other proven skin-lightening agents) and to mitigate acne.

Why it's on the A-list: Niacinamide is a potent cell-communicating ingredient that offers multiple benefits for aging skin. Assuming skin is being protected from sun exposure, niacinamide can improve skin's elasticity, dramatically enhance its barrier function, help erase discolorations, and revive skin's healthy tone and texture.

Researched Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, October 2003, page 681, and September 2000, pages 524-531; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88; Dermatologic Surgery, July 2005, pages 860-865; Experimental Dermatology, July 2005, pages 498-508; Journal of Radiation Research, December 2004, pages 491-495; and Journal of Dermatological Science, volume 31, 2003, pages 193-201.

A-List Products with Niacinamide: The largest selection of products with niacinamide are found in the Olay skin-care line. Among their best options are: Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Moisturizer, Mature Skin Therapy ($17.49 for 1.7 ounces); Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum Fragrance-Free ($18.99 for 1.7 ounces), and Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 15 ($18.99 for 2.5 ounces).

Other A-list products with niacinamide include Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces), Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces), and Skin Balancing Moisture Gel (€19.75 for 2 ounces); Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence ($35 for 1 ounce); and La Roche-Posay Biomedic C-Recovery Treatment ($50 for 1 ounce). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.



Sunscreen Actives

What they do: All sunscreen actives work (to varying degrees of success) to shield skin from damaging UVA and UVB light emitted by the sun. "Chemical" sunscreens such as avobenzone or octinoxate work by converting UV light to heat energy before damage to skin can occur. "Non-chemical" sunscreens (which include only titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) work by deflecting and scattering UV light before it can penetrate and cause damage to skin. Regardless of which actives you use, you must make sure that at least one of the following ingredients is present to ensure you are getting sufficient protection from UVA light: avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Mexoryl SX (ecamsule), or, outside the United States, Tinosorb.

Why they're on the A-list: Sunscreen is the first and foremost best defense against wrinkles-Period! Let me say that again: It's important! Daily application of a sunscreen (whether it's in a moisturizer or a foundation) rated SPF 15 or greater is critical to preventing new wrinkles and keeping existing lines from deepening each year. Ignoring this fundamental principle and focusing instead on the myriad anti-aging claims on product labels is an open invitation for more wrinkles, skin discolorations, and potentially, skin cancer. (Remember: If the claims for the product don't involve claims about sun protection or sunscreen, then they don't require any proof of efficacy.) None of the other ingredients chronicled in this report will work as well for your skin if you ignore the importance of or are not diligent about applying sunscreen daily. Ongoing use of an effective, broad-spectrum sunscreen allows skin to reap maximum benefit from "anti-aging" products. Skin is also better able to repair itself, has a stronger immune response, and will maintain its firmness years longer than it will for those who disregard sun protection or, even worse, continue to tan, whether in the sun or in a tanning salon, and the latter is much worse than getting a tan from the sun.

Shop for sunscreens that not only provide sufficient UVA protection but also include antioxidants and other skin-supportive ingredients. Including such ingredients allows the sunscreen to work even better, while you'll also be fortifying your skin with part of what it needs to remain healthy.

Researched Sources: Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2005, pages 937-958; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, August 2004, pages 200-204; Cutis, September 2003, pages 11-15; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, January 2003, pages 65-71; and Archives of Dermatology, October 2002, pages 1319-1325).

A-List Sunscreens for Normal to Oily Skin: Avon Anew Advanced All-in-One Max SPF 15 Lotion ($16.50 for 1.7 ounces), Ageless Results Renewing Day Cream SPF 15 ($14.50 for 1.7 ounces), and Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces); Clinique Sun-Care UV-Response Face SPF 30 ($17.50 for 1.7 ounces); Neutrogena Healthy Skin Visibly Even Daily SPF 15 Moisturizer ($13.09 for 1.7 ounces); Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion with SPF 15 and Antioxidants (€21.50 for 2 ounces), Essential Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 15 (€16.95 for 6 ounces), and Ultra-Light Weightless Finish SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray (€17.50 for 4 ounces); Prescriptives All You Need+ Broad Spectrum Oil Absorbing Lotion SPF 15 ($40 for 1.7 ounces); and Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

A-List Sunscreens for Normal to Dry Skin: Almay Sun Protector for Body SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces) and Sun Protector for Face SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces); Good Skin All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30 ($12 for 1.7 ounces); Mary Kay TimeWise Day Solution Sunscreen SPF 25 ($30 for 1 ounce); Paula's Choice Extra Care Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30+, for Normal to Dry Skin (€16.95 for 6 ounces); Elizabeth Arden Extreme Conditioning Cream SPF 15 ($36 for 1.7 ounces); Jan Marini Skin Research Bioglycolic Facial Lotion SPF 15 ($36 for 2 ounces); Prescriptives Anti-Age Advanced Protection Lotion SPF 25 ($60 for 1.7 ounces); SkinCeuticals Sports UV Defense SPF 45 ($34 for 3 ounces); and Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

A-List Sunscreens for Sensitive Skin: Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 ($16.50 for 1.4 ounces); Good Skin All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25 ($12 for 1.7 ounces); Paula's Choice Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 (€16.95 for 6 ounces) and Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 (€16.50 for 1 ounce); Obagi Nu-Derm Physical UV Block SPF 32 ($40 for 2 ounces); and SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 30 ($34 for 3 ounces). For the latest new A-list product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

Note: Most foundations with sunscreen contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the sole active ingredients. Such sunscreens are also good choices for those with sensitive skin. For more information, visit www.Beautypedia.com or refer to my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

 

Introduction

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role

Recommended A-List Products

Recommended B-List Products

 

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role to Help Skin Look its Best
Green Tea
Soy Isoflavones/Extract
Pomegranate
Ceramides
Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids

Green Tea

What it does: Green tea is one of the most commonly used antioxidants, and for good reason. It works beautifully to reduce inflammation, provides powerful antioxidant benefits, and can reduce the harmful effects of sun exposure.

Why it's on the B-list: Current research indicates that epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), an extract of green tea, can prevent collagen breakdown and reduce UV damage to skin. EGCG also has been shown to inhibit several types of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP), which means that EGCG can protect skin from aging. Green tea is easy to find in skin-care products, but you need to make sure it's present in a sufficient amount (if it is listed after the fragrance or preservatives, it likely won't amount to much for your skin). Studies on animals have shown that green tea also has an anticancer/antitumor effect on multiple organs, including skin. Ongoing studies are looking into this link with humans; it is possible that green tea may prove a potent ally in the fight against skin cancer.

Researched Sources: Histology and Histopathology, April 2008, pages 487-496; Food Chemistry and Toxicology, December 2007, E-publication; Journal of Medicinal Food, June 2007, pages 337-344; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2007, pages 48-56; and Journal of Dermatological Science, December 2005, pages 195-204.

Recommended Products with Green Tea: Good Skin All Firm Rebuilding Serum ($25 for 1 ounce); Dove Essential Nutrients Day Lotion SPF 15 ($6.59 for 4.05 ounces); Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Original Formula ($11.99 for 1.4 ounces); Mary Kay SPF 30 Sunscreen ($14 for 4 ounces); Estee Lauder Fruition Extra Multi-Action Complex ($46.50 for 1 ounce); Clinique Advanced Stop Signs ($38.50 for 1.7 ounces); Paula's Choice BHA products (various formulas; €19.95 for 4 ounces), Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95), Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces), and Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces); and DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy for Dry Skin ($36 for 4 ounces). For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Soy Isoflavones/Extract

What they do: Soy and its components are reliable antioxidants for skin, and have proven anti-inflammatory effects, which reduce signs of irritation.

Why they're on the B-list: The increased use of soy extract in anti-aging products is largely due to studies showing that genistein (a component of soy) has a collagen-stimulating effect and that various compounds in soy affect skin thickness and elasticity. Other studies have shown that applying soy extract to animal skin and reconstituted human skin mitigates UVB damage and prevents DNA damage. Any ingredient that protects skin from UV light is worth seeking out!

Researched Sources: Carcinogenesis, August 2006, pages 1627-1635; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 2005, pages 1049-1059; Cancer Investigation, 1996, volume 14, number 6, pages 597-608; Oncology Research, volume 14, numbers 7/8, 2004, pages 387-397; Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, May-June 2002, pages 175-183; Cosmetics & Toiletries, June 2002, pages 45-50; Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2003, page 56; and Journal of Cosmetic Science , September-October 2004, pages 473-479).

Recommended Products with Soy: DDF Silky C Serum ($72 for 1 ounce); MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Antioxidant Firming Serum ($95 for 1 ounce) and Hydra-Pure Oil-Free Moisture ($75 for 1 ounce); Aveeno Skin Brightening Daily Treatment SPF 15 ($19 for 1 ounce); and Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95) and Skin Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask (€14.95 for 4 ounces); For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me .


Pomegranate

What it does: Pomegranate and its extracts have antioxidant and anticancer properties that, while not conclusively demonstrated on human skin, show promise in animal and in vitro studies.

Why it's on the B-list: Pomegranate is rich in phytochemicals, compounds that exhibit a wide range of beneficial effects, particularly when consumed orally. Topical application of products containing pomegranate may improve the appearance of wrinkled skin by reducing inflammation and forestalling further damage. Research has also shown that an extract from pomegranate peel has an inhibitory effect on collagen-depleting MMP-1.

Researched Sources: International Journal of Cancer, January 2005, pages 423-433; Journal of Medicinal Food, Fall 2003, 157-161; Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, January 2002, pages 81-86, and pages 166-171; International Journal of Oncology, May 2002, pages 983-986; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

Recommended Products with Pomegranate: Paula's Choice HydraLight Moisture-Infusing Lotion, for Normal to Oily/Combination Skin ($18.95 for 2 ounces); Aloette Advanced Eye Recovery Complex ($54.95 for 0.5 ounce); Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Recovery Boosting Treatment ($85 for 1 ounce); Prescriptives Super Line Preventor Xtreme ($47.50 for 1 ounce); Murad Vitalic Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 ($30 for 2 ounces); and Borba Clarifying Complexion Shield SPF 15 ($25 for 3.4 ounces). For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Ceramides

What they do: Ceramides are part of skin's intercellular matrix, the "glue" that holds skin cells together and helps skin maintain its appearance. When the skin's barrier is compromised by damage from the sun, climate, irritating procedures or products, or other sources, the level of ceramides decreases. The skin's ceramide content can be replenished by using products that contain ceramides.

Why they're on the B-list: Skin as a barrier system inhibits water movement via its extracellular matrix, which has a unique composition of approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Ceramides and other skin-identical ingredients are key elements in keeping skin of any age looking and feeling its best. Along with ceramides, look for moisturizers that contain glycerin, triglycerides, cholesterol, glycosaminoglycans, and/or polysaccharides. All of these ingredients help reinforce skin's intercellular matrix and improve its elasticity.

Researched Sources: Journal of Lipid Research, September 2007; International Journal of Pharmaceutics, January 2006, pages 232-238; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2001, pages 1126-1136; and Experimental Dermatology, October 2005, pages 719-726.

Recommended Products with Ceramides: Pond's Radiance Restore, Age-Defying Skin-Brightening SPF 15 Moisturizer ($12.99 for 1.7 ounces); Dr. Denese New York HydroSeal Hand & Decollete Serum ($35 for 3 ounces); Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules ($68 for 0.95 ounce); MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion ($50 for 1 ounce); SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce); CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion ($12.99 for 12 ounces) and Moisturizing Cream ($14.99 for 16 ounces); Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces) and Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces); and Osmotics TriCeram ($30 for 3.4 ounces). For the latest new product reviews, reference href="http://www.beautypedia.com/">Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.


Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids

What they do: All of these fatty acids replenish skin's intercellular matrix, preserving its appearance. In addition, all of them function as cell-communicating ingredients, working to "tell" the appropriate skin cells how to function in a healthier manner.

Why they're on the B-list: Linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid that has some research showing it to be effective in cell regulation and skin-barrier repair, as well as acting as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory. Oral consumption of foods rich in linoleic acid has been shown to make aging skin less dry. Linolenic acid is an omega-3 fatty acid that, in addition to supplementing skin's intercellular matrix, may also enhance its immune function and encourage healing. Phospholipids (such as lecithin) are essential to the function of cell membranes because they provide a stable surrounding structure. Applied to skin, phospholipids not only have a moisturizing effect, but also help signal skin to repair itself and build a stronger barrier to offset external irritants.

Researched Sources: American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, October 2007, pages 1225-1231; Archives of Dermatological Research, July 1998, pages 375-381; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, March 1998, pages 56-58; Journal of Investigative Dermatology, May 1996, pages 1096-1101, and July 2001, pages 44-51; Seminars in Dermatology, June 1992, pages 169-175; and www.naturaldatabase.com.

Recommended Products with Linoleic/Linolenic Acids or Phospholipids: Dove Energy Glow Brightening Moisturizer SPF 15 ($10.99 for 1.7 ounces); Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces); Paula's Choice Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces); Pond's Mend & Defend, Intensive Protection SPF 15 Moisturizer ($9.39 for 3.3 ounces); Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces) and Hydra Complete Multi-Level Moisture Lotion, for Normal/Combination Skin ($40 for 1.7 ounces); Dr. Denese New York HydroShield Ultra Moisturizing Face Serum ($49 for 0.5 ounce); Good Skin Tri-Aktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler ($39.50 for 1 ounce); Avon Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces); Clinique Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face and Eyes ($55 for 1.4 ounces); and Prescriptives Intensive Rebuilding Lotion ($80 for 1.7 ounces). For the latest new product reviews, reference Beautypedia.com, the completely searchable, continually updated version of my book, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me.

 

Introduction

Recommended A-List Products

Recommended B-List Products

The A-List: Leading the Way to Healthier, Younger Looking Skin

The B-List: Playing a Supporting Role

 

The A-List: Recommended Products

Glycolic or Lactic Acids (Topical Exfoliants) Peter Thomas Roth AHA 12% Ceramide Hydrating Repair Gel ($48 for 2 ounces) Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Hydrating Gel ($48 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice 8% Alpha Hydroxy Acid Gel, for All Skin Types (€ 19.95 for 4 ounces) Neutrogena Healthy Skin Face Lotion, Night ($12.59 for 2.5 ounces) Ultraceuticals Ultra Ace Hydration Booster ($50 for 2.5 ounces)	Salicylic Acid Bare Escentuals bareVitamins Skin Rev-er Upper ($21 for 2.3 ounces) Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Stress Control 3-in-1 Hydrating Acne Treatment ($7.99 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel (€19.95 for 4 ounces) Paula's Choice 1% Beta Hydroxy Acid Lotion (€19.95 for 4 ounces) Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Gel (€19.95 for 4 ounces) Paula's Choice 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid Liquid (€19.95 for 4 ounces) Paula's Choice Weightless Body Treatment with 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid ($19.95 for 8 ounces) ProActiv Solution Clarifying Night Cream ($28.75 for 1 ounce)
Retinol SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce) SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 Maximum Strength Refining Night Cream with 1.0% Pure Retinol ($48 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Super Antioxidant Mattifying Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce) Philosophy eye believe, deep wrinkle peptide gel ($30 for 0.5 ounce) Alpha Hydrox Retinol Night ResQ ($14.99 for 1.05 ounces) Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Intensive Night Cream ($17.39 for 1.4 ounces)	Vitamin C MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Vitamin C Serum ($90 for 1 ounce) DDF C3 Plus Serum ($62 for 0.5 ounce) La Roche-Posay BioMedic Potent-C 10.5 Concentrate ($60 for 1 ounce) SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($122 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce) Jan Marini Skin Research C-ESTA Serum ($60 for 1 ounce) Cellex-C Serum for Sensitive Skin ($90 for 1 ounce) Perricone M.D. Cosmeceuticals ($50 for 0.5 ounce)
Vitamin E Jason Natural Ester-C Lotion Anti-Oxidant Regenerating Moisturizer ($16 for 4 ounces) NeoStrata Daytime Protection Cream SPF 15, PHA 10 ($33 for 1.75 ounces) Kiehl's Light Nourishing Eye Cream ($20 for 0.5 ounce) Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Moisturizer (€19.75 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel (€19.75 for 2 ounces) RevaleSkin Night Cream ($99 for 1.7 ounces) Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Firm, for Eye and Lip Area ($47 for 0.5 ounce) Artistry by Amway Skin Refinishing Lotion ($48.85 for 1 ounce)	Niacinamide Olay Total Effects 7-in-1 Anti-Aging Moisturizer, Mature Skin Therapy ($17.49 for 1.7 ounces) Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum Fragrance-Free ($18.99 for 1.7 ounces) Olay Regenerist UV Defense Regenerating Lotion SPF 15 ($18.99 for 2.5 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces) Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel (€19.75 for 2 ounces) Mary Kay TimeWise Even Complexion Essence ($35 for 1 ounce) La Roche-Posay Biomedic C-Recovery Treatment ($50 for 1 ounce)
Sunscreen Actives - Normal to Oily Skin Avon Anew Advanced All-in-One Max SPF 15 Lotion ($16.50 for 1.7 ounces) Ageless Results Renewing Day Cream SPF 15 ($14.50 for 1.7 ounces) Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces) Clinique Sun-Care UV-Response Face SPF 30 ($17.50 for 1.7 ounces) Neutrogena Healthy Skin Visibly Even Daily SPF 15 Moisturizer ($13.09 for 1.7 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Daily Mattifying Lotion with SPF 15 and Antioxidants (€21.50 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice Essential Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 15 (€16.95 for 6 ounces) Paula's Choice Ultra-Light Weightless Finish SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray (€17.50 for 4 ounces) Pond's Mend & Defend, Intensive Protection SPF 15 Moisturizer ($9.39 for 3.3 ounces) Prescriptives All You Need+ Broad Spectrum Oil Absorbing Lotion SPF 15 ($40 for 1.7 ounces) Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces)	Sunscreen Actives - Normal to Dry Skin Almay Sun Protector for Body SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces) Almay Sun Protector for Face SPF 30 ($8.99 for 4.2 ounces) Good Skin All Bright Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30 ($12 for 1.7 ounces) Mary Kay TimeWise Day Solution Sunscreen SPF 25 ($30 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Extra Care Moisturizing Sunscreen SPF 30+, for Normal to Dry Skin (€16.95 for 6 ounces) Elizabeth Arden Extreme Conditioning Cream SPF 15 ($36 for 1.7 ounces) Jan Marini Skin Research Bioglycolic Facial Lotion SPF 15 ($36 for 2 ounces) Prescriptives Anti-Age Advanced Protection Lotion SPF 25 ($60 for 1.7 ounces) SkinCeuticals Sports UV Defense SPF 45 ($34 for 3 ounces) Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces)
Sunscreen Actives - Sensitive Skin Clinique City Block Sheer Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 25 ($16.50 for 1.4 ounces) Good Skin All Calm Gentle Sunscreen SPF 25 ($12 for 1.7 ounces) Neutrogena Healthy Defense SPF 30 Daily Eye Cream, Light Tint ($11.99 for 0.5 ounce) Paula's Choice Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 (€16.95 for 6 ounces) Paula's Choice Barely There Sheer Matte Tint SPF 20 (€16.50 for 1 ounce) Obagi Nu-Derm Physical UV Block SPF 32 ($40 for 2 ounces) SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 30 ($34 for 3 ounces)

 

The B-List: Recommended Products

Green Tea Good Skin All Firm Rebuilding Serum ($25 for 1 ounce) Dove Essential Nutrients Day Lotion SPF 15 ($6.59 for 4.05 ounces) Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Original Formula ($11.99 for 1.4 ounces) Mary Kay SPF 30 Sunscreen ($14 for 4 ounces) Estee Lauder Fruition Extra Multi-Action Complex ($46.50 for 1 ounce) Clinique Advanced Stop Signs ($38.50 for 1.7 ounces) Paula's Choice BHA products (various formulas; €19.95 for 4 ounces) Paula's Choice Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Hydrating Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces) Paula's Choice Healthy Skin Refreshing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces) DERMAdoctor KP Duty Dermatologist Moisturizing Therapy for Dry Skin ($36 for 4 ounces)	Soy Isoflavones/Extract DDF Silky C Serum ($72 for 1 ounce) MD Skincare by Dr. Dennis Gross Hydra-Pure Antioxidant Firming Serum ($95 for 1 ounce) Hydra-Pure Oil-Free Moisture ($75 for 1 ounce) Aveeno Skin Brightening Daily Treatment SPF 15 ($19 for 1 ounce) Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Super Antioxidant Concentrate (€24.95) Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Hydrating Treatment Mask (€14.95 for 4 ounces)
Pomegranate Paula's Choice HydraLight Moisture-Infusing Lotion, for Normal to Oily/Combination Skin (€20.95 for 2 ounces) Aloette Advanced Eye Recovery Complex ($54.95 for 0.5 ounce) Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Concentrate Recovery Boosting Treatment ($85 for 1 ounce) Prescriptives Super Line Preventor Xtreme ($47.50 for 1 ounce) Murad Vitalic Energizing Pomegranate Moisturizer SPF 15 ($30 for 2 ounces) Borba Clarifying Complexion Shield SPF 15 ($25 for 3.4 ounces)	Ceramides Pond's Radiance Restore, Age-Defying Skin-Brightening SPF 15 Moisturizer ($12.99 for 1.7 ounces) Dr. Denese New York HydroSeal Hand & Decollete Serum ($35 for 3 ounces) Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Gold Ultra Restorative Capsules ($68 for 0.95 ounce) MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Lotion ($50 for 1 ounce) SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream with 0.5% Pure Retinol ($42 for 1 ounce) CeraVe Moisturizing Lotion ($12.99 for 12 ounces) CeraVe Moisturizing Cream ($14.99 for 16 ounces) Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Toner (€16.50 for 6 ounces) Osmotics TriCeram ($30 for 3.4 ounces)
Linoleic/Linolenic Acids/ Phospholipids Dove Energy Glow Brightening Moisturizer SPF 15 ($10.99 for 1.7 ounces) Kiss My Face Face Factor Face + Neck SPF 30 ($10 for 2 ounces) Paula's Choice Hydrating Treatment Cream (€19.75 for 2 ounces) Pond's Mend & Defend, Intensive Protection SPF 15 Moisturizer ($9.39 for 3.3 ounces) Estee Lauder DayWear Plus Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Lotion SPF 15, for Oily Skin ($38 for 1.7 ounces) Estee Lauder Hydra Complete Multi-Level Moisture Lotion, for Normal/Combination Skin ($40 for 1.7 ounces) Dr. Denese New York HydroShield Ultra Moisturizing Face Serum ($49 for 0.5 ounce) Good Skin Tri-Aktiline Instant Deep Wrinkle Filler ($39.50 for 1 ounce) Avon Hydra-Radiance Moisturizing Day Lotion SPF 15 ($12 for 4 ounces) Clinique Repairwear Deep Wrinkle Concentrate for Face and Eyes ($55 for 1.4 ounces) Prescriptives Intensive Rebuilding Lotion ($80 for 1.7 ounces)