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20 Beauty Myths, true or false?
 There are skin-care products that really are better than Botox or better than dermal fillers.Fact: Over the past few years cosmetic companies have positioned their skin-care products claiming that they can compete with or even outdo medical corrective procedures such as Botox. The ads in fashion magazines for these types of skin-care products often make claims about how dangerous Botox injections can be. There is nothing scary about Botox (other than the sound of the botulism toxin material used). In fact, the research about Botox's effectiveness and safety is overwhelmingly positive for every disorder they treat with it (and there are many, from cerebral palsy in children to headaches and eye tics) (Sources: Journal of Neural Transmission, April 2008, pages 617-623; Laryngoscope, May 2008, pages 790-796; Expert Opinion on Pharmacotherapy, June 2007, pages 1059-1072; Journal of Headache and Pain, October 2007, pages 294-300; and Pediatrics, July 2007, pages 49-58). On the other hand, there is absolutely no research showing that any skin-care product can even remotely work in any manner like Botox or like dermal fillers (such as Restylane or Aretcoll) or like laser resurfacing. Regardless of the ingredients or the claims for skin-care products, it just isn't possible. Even Botox can't work like Botox if you apply it topically rather than injecting it into facial muscles. Nor can dermal fillers plump up wrinkles when applied topically rather than being injected. When administered by professionals, Botox and dermal injections almost immediately make wrinkles in the treated area disappear. Believing that skin-care products can do the same is a complete waste of money. There has never been a single skin-care product that has ever put a plastic surgeon or cosmetic dermatologist out of business! So, despite the increasing number of products claiming to be better than Botox, there were more Botox injections and dermal filler injections performed in 2007 than ever before"”millions and millions of them. Corollary to Myth #1: Dermal fillers such as Radiesse and Restylane are completely safe and are the best filler options available. Fact: Absolutely not true! First, there are more than 30 dermal filler materials being used, and many of them are even more beneficial and definitely longer lasting than Radiesse and Restylane (Sources: Clinical and Plastic Surgery, April 2005, pages 151-162; Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, November 2007, pages 33S-40S; and Dermatologic Therapy, May 2006, pages 141-150). Although dermal fillers do work beautifully to fill out depressed areas of the face, such as the nasal labial folds that extend from your nose to your mouth, deep lines between the eyebrows, and marionette lines along the sides of the mouth, they do pose risks. The advertising for these two products, and the repeated mentions of them in fashion magazines, has led consumers to believe that these work flawlessly. There are definitely problems (albeit infrequent) associated with these fillers, and with all of the more than 30 fillers currently being used. These problems and adverse events are primarily granulomas (a mass of inflamed tissue) and nodules, which are lumps or hard spheres that may occur at or near the injection site. Although these sometimes must be corrected with surgery, for the temporary fillers the adverse events do fade with time while the semi-permanent fillers can stay for far longer periods of time. The trade off is duration versus risk and the decision is yours. You should choose skin-care products based on your age. 
Fact: Many products on the market claim to be designed for a specific age group, especially for "mature" women; mature usually refers to women over 50. (So I wonder, does that mean if you are under 50, you're immature?) Nonetheless, before you buy into any of these arbitrary age divisions, ask yourself why the over-50 group is always lumped together? According to this logic, someone who is 40 or 45 shouldn't be using the same products as someone who is 50 (only 5 or 10 years older), but someone who is 80 should be using the same products as someone who is 50...? Products labeled as "hypoallergenic" are better for sensitive skin. 
Fact: "Hypoallergenic" is little more than a nonsense word. It is nothing more than an advertising contrivance in the world of cosmetics meant to imply that a product is unlikely or less likely to cause allergic reactions and therefore is better for sensitive or problem skin. To "imply" is never the same as "fact," and in this situation it is patently untrue that products labeled "hypoallergenic" are any better for sensitive skin! There are absolutely no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere in the world, for determining whether or not a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic. A company can label their product "hypoallergenic" because there is no regulation that says they can't, regardless of any proof, and what proof can they provide given there is no standard to measure against. Given that there are no regulations governing this supposed category that was made up by the cosmetics industry, there are plenty of products labeled "hypoallergenic" that contain problematic ingredients and that could indeed trigger allergic reactions. The word "hypoallergenic" gives you no better understanding of what you are or aren't putting on your skin (Sources: www.fda.gov; and Ostomy and Wound Management, March 2003, pages 20 -21). Corollary to Myth #3: "Dermatologist tested" on a cosmetic label is a good indication that the product is reliable and can live up to the claims. Fact: You absolutely should not rely on the "dermatologist tested" claim any more than you should rely on the appearance of a doctor's name on a product's label to indicate you are getting a superior (or "medical-grade") formulation. There are many aspects to the term "dermatologist-tested," as it's used on a cosmetics label, that are misleading and deceptive; however, the primary problem is that it does not tell you what dermatologist did the testing, what he or she tested, how he or she performed the testing, or what the results were. That is, they don't tell you what they found with their supposed testing; they just tell you that they tested it. Without all of the testing information, there is no way to determine what it means. More often than not, it just mean that a cosmetics company paid a doctor to say it is a good product (and there are lots of doctors on the payroll of lots of cosmetics companies). Or they could actually have performed a test, but only on six people, and that happens more often that you'd think; which hardly provides results you can rely on. Dermatologist-tested is nothing more than a marketing gimmick because people like to believe that "doctors" have the consumer's best interest at heart. But, in the world of cosmetics, that is not always the case. Another Corollary to Myth #3: Cosmeceutical companies make better products than cosmetics companies. Fact: The term "cosmeceutical" is, sad to say, a false advertising gimmick created by dermatologists to suggest that their "cosmeceutical" products are somehow better than other products in the cosmetics industry. What pathetic chicanery and deceit! At the very least what you should expect from the medical world is scientific fact, not these fictitious sales-oriented machinations. When you hear the word "cosmeceutical," you're supposed to think a product is a blend of cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceutical-grade ingredients and, therefore, it must be better for your skin"”right? The fact is, "cosmeceutical" is just a trumped up word that has no legal or recognized meaning as to what constitutes content versus the content of any "non-cosmeceutical" cosmetic. A quick comparison of ingredient lists reveals that there is nothing any more unique or pharmaceutical about cosmeceuticals than any other cosmetic in the cosmetics industry. Plus, the FDA does not consider the term "cosmeceutical" to be a valid product class, so the term isn't regulated. So, you should view it merely as a marketing term, and nothing more. Anyone can use that term to represent their brand's identity (Source: www.fda.gov). Age spots are best treated with specialty skin lighteners, whiteners, or products claiming to get rid of brown skin discolorations.
Women outgrow acne; you're not supposed to break out once you reach your 20s and beyond! 
Fact: If only that were true, my skin-care struggles in life would have been very different. In fact, women in their 20s, 30s, 40s, and even 50s can have acne just like teenagers, and the treatment principles remain the same. Not everyone who has acne as a teenager will grow out of it, and even if you had clear skin as a teenager, there's no guarantee that you won't get acne later in life, perhaps during menopause. You can blame this often-maddening inconsistency on hormones! What is true is that men can outgrow acne, because after puberty men's hormone levels level out, while women's hormone levels fluctuate throughout their lifetime, which is why many women experience breakouts around their menstrual cycle (Sources: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2004, pages 129-138; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, May 2006, pages 281-290; International Journal of Dermatology, November 2007, pages 1188-1191). Corollary to Myth #5: Acne is caused by eating the wrong foods. Fact:This is both true and false. The traditional foods thought to cause acne, such as chocolate and greasy foods, have no effect on acne, and there is no research indicating otherwise. However, there is the potential that individual dietary allergic reactions can trigger acne, such as eating foods that contain iodine, like shellfish, although there is an ongoing controversy about that. A bit more conclusive is new research showing that milk, especially skim milk, can increase the risk of acne. The same may be true for a diet high in carbohydrates; a high glycemic load can increase breakouts, while a low glycemic load can reduce their occurrence. (Glycemic load is a ranking system for the amount of carbohydrates in a food portion; too many carbs in your diet could trigger breakouts.) Experimenting for a few months to see which of these food groups either hurt or help your skin is worth the effort (Sources: Molecular Nutrition and Food Research, June 2008, pages 718-726; Dermatologic Therapy, March-April 2008, pages 86-95; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, May 2008, pages 787-793; and Dermatology Online Journal, May 30, 2006). Another Corollary to Myth #5: If you clean your face better you can clear up your acne. Fact: Over-cleaning your face can actually make matters worse. Acne is caused primarily by hormonal fluctuations that affect the oil gland, creating an environment where acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) can flourish. Don't confuse scrubbing or "deep cleaning" with helping acne, because it absolutely doesn't. Over-cleansing your face triggers inflammation that actually makes acne worse. What really helps breakouts is using a gentle cleanser so you don't damage your skin's outer barrier or create inflammation (both of which hinder your skin's ability to heal and fight bacteria) and using gentle exfoliation. An effective exfoliating product that contains salicylic acid or glycolic acid can make all the difference in reducing acne (Sources: Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology Venereology, May 2008, pages 629 -631; Expert Opinion in Pharmacotherapy, April 2008, pages 955-971; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2007, pages 59-65; Cutis, July 2006, Supplemental, pages 34-40; and Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, June 2006, pages 296-302) And another Corollary to Myth #5: Stress causes acne. Fact: Generally, it is believed that stress can trigger acne, but no one is exactly sure how that works, and there is conflicting research. While it never hurts to reduce angst and worry in your life, stress as a causative factor for acne is hard to pinpoint. Plus, the way to treat acne doesn't change because of the stressors in your life (Sources: European Journal of Dermatology, July-August, pages 412-415; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2004, pages 129-138; Archives of Dermatologic Research, July 2008, pages 311-316; and American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, May 2006, pages 281-290). ...Okay, just one more Corollary to Myth #5: Toothpaste works to prevent or quickly heal a pimple. Fact: Absolutely not true!!! This would be funny if so many people didn't believe it. None of the ingredients in toothpaste can have a positive effect on acne or change a blemish once you have it, and actually it can make matters worse. The bacteria in your mouth are not related to the bacteria in your pores that cause acne (P. acne). And although the fluoride or sodium monofluorophosphate in your toothpaste can help fight bacteria in your mouth, on your skin it actually can cause pimples and redness in the areas with which it comes in contact. This is known as perioral dermatitis (Sources: Journal of the American Dental Association, September 2003, page 1165; Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, June 1990, pages 1029 -1032; and Archives of Dermatology, June 1975, page 793). The other ingredients in toothpaste might offer minimal abrasive properties, but they provide nothing that a gentle rubbing with a washcloth doesn't provide far better. Another issue for skin is that the flavorings added to toothpaste present additional problems that you should avoid (Source: Contact Dermatitis, October 2000, pages 216-222). Makeup causes acne "Our studies show..." is a great way to determine if a skin-care product works or not. Fact: In the world of skin care, there is an entire business known as claim substantiation, and it definitely does not equate to legitimate scientific research at all. Laboratories, including those at some respected universities and colleges, are expert at setting up a study so that the results support whatever the label or advertisements say that a product can do. One important thing that many consumers and physicians aren't aware of, and this includes lots of physicians who are involved in these dubious (often completely bogus) studies, is the question, "Under what conditions were the studies performed?" Applying collagen and elastin to skin will add to the collagen and elastin content of skin, which will eliminate wrinkles. Fact: Collagen and elastin in skin-care products can serve as good water-binding agents, but they cannot fuse with your skin's natural supply of these supportive elements. In most cases, the collagen molecule is too large to penetrate into the skin. But even when it is made small enough to be absorbed it cannot bind with the collagen existing in skin, and there isn't a shred of research indicating otherwise. What does exist are myriad studies showing that collagen is a very good moisturizing ingredient, which is great for skin, but not unique or the only formulary option. It is important to point out that even if you were to take the collagen that is used in medically administered dermal injections and rub it on your skin, it wouldn't be absorbed, and it wouldn't change wrinkles by bolstering the existing collagen. There is even less research showing that elastin has any benefit when applied topically (Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2005, pages 101 -106). Eye creams are specially formulated for use around the delicate eye area. 
Fact: There is no evidence, research, or documentation validating the claim that the eye area needs ingredients different from those you use on your face or neck area or décolletage. Even if there were ingredients that were special for the eye area, that isn't evident in eye products; their formulations are random, with no consistency in the industry. All cosmetics companies put whatever ingredients they want to into their eye products (and usually give you half as much but charge you twice as much as the same product for your face). The ingredient label on these "specialty" products more than proves the point. Eye creams are a whim of the cosmetics industry designed to evoke the sale of two products when only one is needed. There is a product out there that really can eliminate wrinkles. Expensive cosmetics are better than inexpensive cosmetics. 
Fact: The absolute truth is that there are good and bad products in all price categories. Mineral oil is a terrible, unnatural ingredient for skin because it comes from crude oil and will suffocate your skin. Fact: This recurring, foolish, misinformation about mineral oil and petrolatum is maddening. After all, crude oil is as natural as any other earth-derived substance. Moreover, lots of ingredients are derived from awful-sounding sources, but are nevertheless benign and totally safe. Salt is a perfect example. Common table salt is sodium chloride, composed of sodium and chloride, but salt doesn't have the caustic properties of chloride (a form of chlorine) or the unstable explosiveness of pure sodium.  Natural ingredients are better for skin than synthetic ingredients.
Fact: Whatever preconceived notion someone might have or media-induced fiction someone might believe about natural ingredients being better for the skin; it's not true, there is no factual basis or scientific legitimacy for that belief. Not only is the definition of "'natural" hazy, but the term is loosely regulated, so any cosmetics company can use it to mean whatever they want it to mean. Just because an ingredient grows out of the ground or is found in nature doesn't make it automatically good for skin; and the reverse is also true, just because it is synthetic doesn't make it bad. A cooling or tingling sensation is a sign that your skin-care product is really working. Fact: This common myth couldn't be further from the truth. That familiar tingling sensation is actually just your skin responding to irritation, resulting in inflammation. Products that produce that sensation can actually damage your skin's healing process, make scarring worse, cause collagen and elastin to break down, and increase the growth of bacteria that cause pimples. Ingredients such as menthol, peppermint, camphor, and mint are counter-irritants (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, May 1996, pages 245-248; Code of Federal Regulations Title 21-Food and Drugs, revised April 1, 2001, CITE: 21CFR310.545, www.fda.gov; and www.naturaldatabase.com). Counter-irritants are used to induce local inflammation in an effort to reduce inflammation in deeper or adjacent tissues. In other words, they substitute one kind of inflammation for another, which is never good for skin. Irritation or inflammation, no matter what causes it or how it happens, impairs the skin's immune and healing response (Source: Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, November -December 2000, pages 358-371). And although your skin may not show it or doesn't react in an irritated fashion, if you apply irritants to your skin the damage is still taking place and is ongoing, so it adds up over time (Source: Skin Research and Technology, November 2001, pages 227-237). Blackheads are caused by dirt and can be scrubbed away. Fact: Blackheads may make skin look dirty, but they are unrelated to dirt. Blackheads are formed when hormones cause too much sebum (oil) to be produced, dead skin cells get in the way, the pore is impaired or misshapen, and the path for the oil to exit through the pore is blocked, creating a clog. As this clog nears the surface of the skin, the mixture of oil and cellular debris oxidizes and turns, you guessed it: black. You cannot scrub away blackheads, at least not completely. Using a topical scrub removes the top portion of the blackhead, but does nothing to address the underlying cause, so they're back again before too long. Instead of a scrub, try using a well-formulated BHA (salicylic acid) product. Salicylic acid exfoliates inside the pore lining, dissolving oil and dead skin cells that lead to constant blackheads. Oily skin can be controlled externally (from the outside in) with the right skin-care products. Fact: Possibly, but right now this is mere conjecture, involving an extremely complicated and difficult to understand process. Oil production is triggered primarily by androgens and estrogen (male and female hormones, respectively), and altering hormone production topically is not something available in the realm of cosmetics. However, the sebaceous gland itself also produces active androgens, which can increase sebum excretion. What can happen is that stress-sensing skin signals (think skin inflammation and irritation) can lead to the production and release of androgens and cause more oil production, which can clog pores (Sources: Clinical Dermatology, September-October 2004, pages 360-366; and Experimental Dermatology, June 2008, pages 542-551). That makes topical irritation and inflammation bad for skin, but that still doesn't affect the production of hormones inside the body. Dry skin is caused by a lack of water, either by not having enough in skin or simply not drinking enough water. Fact: Ironically, dry skin is not as simple as just a lack of moisture. The studies that have compared the water content of dry skin to that of normal or oily skin show that there doesn't appear to be a statistically significant difference. And adding more moisture to the skin is not necessarily a good thing"”if anything, too much moisture, like soaking in a bathtub, is bad for skin because it disrupts the skin's outer barrier (the intracellular matrix) by breaking down the substances that keep skin cells functioning normally and in good shape. What is thought to be taking place when dry skin occurs is that the intracellular matrix (the substances between skin cells that keep them intact, smooth, and healthy) has become depleted or damaged, bringing about a rough, uneven, and flaky texture that allows water to be lost. But adding water won't keep that moisture in skin unless the outer barrier is maintained or repaired. To prevent dry skin, the primary goal is to avoid and reduce anything that damages the outer barrier, including sun damage, products that contain irritating ingredients, alcohol, drying cleansers, and smoking. All of the research about dry skin is related to the ingredients and treatments that reinforce the substances in skin that keep it functioning normally (Sources: British Journal of Dermatology, July 2008, pages 23-34; Dermatologic Therapy, March 2004, Supplement 1, pages 43 -48; Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2007, pages 75-82; and International Journal of Cosmetic Science, April 2003, pages 63 -95, and October 2000, pages 37-383) Everyone needs a day cream and a night cream: Skin requires special care at night. Fact: The ONLY difference between a daytime and nighttime moisturizer is that the daytime version should contain a well-formulated sunscreen. What you often hear cosmetics salespeople say is that the skin needs different ingredients at night than during the day. Well, let me tell you: If that's the case there isn't a shred of research or a list anywhere of what those ingredients should be. Skin is repairing itself and producing skin cells every nanosecond of the day, and night. Helping skin do that in as healthy a manner as possible doesn't change based on the time of day. Skin needs a generous amount of antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical ingredients all day and all night. For daytime wear, unless your foundation contains an effective sunscreen, it is essential that your moisturizer feature a well-formulated, broad-spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 15 or higher. Well-formulated means that it contains UVA-protecting ingredients, specifically titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, avobenzone (also called butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or Parsol 1789), Tinosorb, or Mexoryl SX (ecamsule). Regardless of the time of day, your skin needs all the current state-of-the-art ingredients it can get. Your skin adapts to the skin-care products you are using and you need to change to new products every now and then. I should just use what I like on my skin, that's the most important thing. |
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